How to Understand Your Skin Type: A Scientific Guide to Smarter Skincare

Every day, we see people asking skincare questions in groups and customers seeking real answers, not just opinions or trends. That’s why we created this educational, evidence-based guide. If you already know us, you know we’re proudly science-geeks..... passionate about biology, skin function, psychology and neuroscience. For us, skincare is more than beauty. It’s behaviour, habit, and health.

Understanding your skin isn’t just about calling it oily or dry. It’s about recognising how your skin functions biologically, how it responds to hormones, environment, and lifestyle,  and how to support it with products grounded in science. Whether you’re a curious beginner, a skincare enthusiast, or a seasoned professional, this guide will help you identify your skin type, understand its changing needs, and make informed choices that support real skin health.

1. The Structure of Skin: Three Primary Layers

Your skin is a living, complex organ made up of three layers, each with distinct and vital functions:

A. Epidermis (outermost layer)

• Contains keratinocytes (cells that build structural proteins like keratin), melanocytes (which produce melanin, the pigment that gives skin colour), and Langerhans cells (immune surveillance).
• The top sub-layer, called the stratum corneum, consists of dead keratinized cells and lipids. It sheds and renews approximately every 28 days and protects against dehydration and external threats.
• Melanin absorbs UV rays and protects the DNA of skin cells from sun damage.

B. Dermis (middle layer)

• Rich in collagen and elastin, proteins that maintain skin strength and elasticity.
• Contains blood vessels, nerve endings, sebaceous glands (produce oil), sweat glands, and hair follicles.
• Supports skin nutrition, thermoregulation (temperature balance), and structure.

C. Hypodermis (subcutaneous or fat layer)

• Composed of adipose tissue (fat) and connective tissue.
• Acts as a cushion, thermal insulator, and energy reserve.

2. What Does Skin Actually Do?

Skin isn’t just a barrier, it’s a multi-functional organ that plays a critical role in your overall health:

• Protection from mechanical trauma, bacteria, viruses, chemicals, and UV radiation.
• Temperature regulation through sweat glands and blood vessel dilation or constriction.
• Sensation via nerve endings (detecting touch, pressure, pain, and temperature).
• Vitamin D synthesis, triggered by UVB rays.
• Immune defence, especially in the epidermis, is through structures like SALT (Skin-Associated Lymphoid Tissue).
• Barrier function, preventing TEWL (trans-epidermal water loss) and shielding against irritants.

3. Skin Types and What Influences Them

Your skin type is mostly determined by genetics, but can be influenced by many factors. It affects how much oil your skin produces, how reactive it is, and how it holds moisture.

The Five Core Skin Types:

• Normal – Balanced, even, not overly dry or oily.
• Dry – Tight, rough, flaky; lacking natural oils (sebum).
• Oily – Shiny, often with enlarged pores and prone to breakouts.
• Combination – Oily in the T-zone (forehead, nose, chin), dry or normal on cheeks.

Sensitive – Easily irritated; may react with redness, stinging, or itching.

Key Influences on Skin Type:

• Genetics
• Hormones
• Climate and seasonal changes
• Diet and hydration
• Stress and sleep quality
• Medications
• Skincare habits and products

4. The Role of Hormones in Skin Behavior

Hormones are major influencers of skin function — affecting everything from oil production and hydration to collagen levels and inflammation. Your skin has receptors for hormones, which means it directly responds to changes in your body’s internal environment.

Key Hormones and Their Effects on Skin:

• Androgens (e.g., testosterone, dihydrotestosterone): Stimulate sebaceous glands to produce more oil (sebum). High levels can lead to oily skin and hormonal acne, especially around the jawline.
• Estrogen: Supports hydration, collagen production, and skin thickness. When estrogen declines (as during menopause), skin often becomes drier, thinner, and loses elasticity.
• Progesterone: Can increase oiliness and water retention, especially in the luteal phase (second half) of the menstrual cycle. This can cause premenstrual breakouts.
• Cortisol (the body’s primary stress hormone): Triggers inflammation, slows healing, worsens acne and sensitivity, and contributes to barrier damage.

The Skin as a Hormone-Responsive Organ:

Skin cells like sebocytes (oil-producing cells), keratinocytes (surface skin cells), and fibroblasts (collagen-producing cells) have hormone receptors. That means hormonal shifts can:

• Increase oiliness
• Disrupt moisture balance
• Accelerate or delay aging signs
• Trigger inflammatory skin issues like acne, eczema, or rosacea

Skincare Tips for Hormonal Skin Changes:

• For breakouts before your period, introduce niacinamide, salicylic acid, or azelaic acid to regulate oil and calm inflammation.
• During stressful periods, use ceramide-rich moisturizers and avoid aggressive exfoliants.
• During menopause, focus on hydration (with hyaluronic acid), collagen support (with peptides or retinoids), and barrier repair.

5. How to Identify Your Skin Type

To determine your true skin type, perform a simple home test:

The Bare-Faced Test:

1. Cleanse your face with a gentle, fragrance-free cleanser.
2. Do not apply anything else. Wait for 2–3 hours.
3. Observe your skin in natural light:

• Shiny all over? → Oily
• T-zone shiny, cheeks dry or normal? → Combination
• Tight, flaky, or dull? → Dry
• Even, comfortable, soft? → Normal
• Red, stinging, irritated? → Sensitive

Repeat over several days and environments to confirm results.

6. Dehydrated Skin vs. Dry Skin

These are often confused — but they’re not the same:

• Dry skin = lacks oil. It's a skin type, often lifelong.
• Dehydrated skin = lacks water. It's a temporary condition that can affect anyone, even those with oily skin.

How to recognize dehydrated skin:

• Feels tight, papery, or uncomfortable after washing.
• Fine lines appear exaggerated, especially around the eyes and forehead.
• Skin may be oily yet still feel dry or look dull.
• Makeup cracks or clings to dry areas.

What causes dehydration?

• Cold weather or indoor heating
• Over-washing or using harsh products
• Low water intake or high caffeine/alcohol
• Sun exposure without hydration

How to treat it:

Use hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid, glycerin, and panthenol, and seal moisture with a nourishing moisturizer. Never skip SPF.

7. Skin Aging: Intrinsic vs. Extrinsic

Intrinsic Aging (Natural Aging)

• Begins in your mid-20s
• Gradual loss of collagen and elastin
• Reduced cell turnover and hydration
• Thinner dermis and slower healing

Extrinsic Aging (External or Environmental)

• Caused by UV exposure, pollution, smoking, poor diet, and stress
• Leads to photoaging: wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, rough texture
• UV rays trigger MMPs (enzymes that break down collagen)

Many early “wrinkles” are actually dehydration lines. If they vanish after applying a hydrating serum, they’re likely not true ageing lines yet.

8. Common Skin Conditions and How to Recognize Them 

Understanding your skin’s behavior can help you spot common concerns early and choose the right skincare support. However, this section is intended for general informational purposes only and does not replace a diagnosis or treatment plan from a qualified dermatologist or medical professional. If you're dealing with persistent or severe skin issues, it's always best to consult a healthcare provider.

Acne

• Caused by excess oil, clogged pores, inflammation, and bacteria 
• Treated with: salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide, niacinamide, retinoids

Hyperpigmentation

• Dark spots from sun, acne, or hormones (melasma)
• Treated with: vitamin C, azelaic acid, niacinamide, SPF, and gentle exfoliants

Rosacea

• Redness, flushing, visible vessels, often on cheeks/nose
• Triggered by: heat, alcohol, stress, spicy food
• Treated with: azelaic acid, calming agents, sometimes laser or prescription creams

Eczema (Atopic Dermatitis)

• Itchy, inflamed patches due to a compromised barrier
• Treated with: ceramide-rich moisturizers, topical steroids, antihistamines, and barrier protection

9. Evidence-Based Skincare: What Actually Works

The Core Routine

1. Cleanser – Non-stripping, pH-balanced
2. Moisturizer – Maintains hydration and restores the barrier
3. Sunscreen – Daily SPF 30+ (broad-spectrum)
4. Targeted Treatments – Based on your skin needs

Proven Active Ingredients

• Retinoids: Increase cell turnover, smooth lines, treat acne
• Vitamin C: Brightens, evens skin tone, protects from oxidative stress
• Niacinamide: Reduces redness, balances oil, fades dark spots
• Hyaluronic Acid: Hydrates deeply by drawing water into the skin
• Ceramides: Rebuild the skin barrier, soothe sensitivity
• SPF filters: Zinc oxide, titanium dioxide (mineral); avobenzone, octocrylene (chemical)
• NOTE ACTIVE INGREDIENTS SHOULD BE USED WITH CAUTION

👉 Read one of our previous blogs for in-depth, evidence-based insights on active ingredients.

10. Skincare Myths and Misconceptions

• “You don’t need sunscreen indoors.”
  False. UVA rays penetrate windows and contribute to aging and pigmentation.
• “Oily skin doesn’t need moisturizer.”
  False. Dehydrated oily skin can overcompensate with more oil.
• “Natural means better.”
  False. Many natural ingredients can cause irritation or allergic reactions.
• “You can shrink your pores.”
  False. You can minimise their appearance, but you cannot change their size permanently.

11. Lifestyle and Skin: The Inside-Out Connection

• Sleep: Inadequate sleep increases cortisol, which worsens inflammation and slows healing.
• Nutrition: Antioxidant-rich foods and omega-3s support collagen, reduce inflammation.
• Stress: Affects hormonal balance and aggravates acne, eczema, and rosacea.
• Exercise: Boosts circulation and lymphatic drainage, delivering nutrients to skin cells.

Conclusion: Learn Your Skin’s Language

Healthy skin isn’t about perfection.... It’s about balance, understanding, and care. By learning your true skin type, recognising your skin’s changing conditions, and working with your biology, not against it, you create a foundation for long-term skin health and visible results.

Skincare becomes powerful when it’s personal, consistent, and informed.